What an overworked phrase! Catchy, but overworked. We’re not talking about when to take a Viagra or Cialis. Professional photographers have known for decades the kinds of photos they capture when the serendipity springs up before their eyes. They capture the moment because they press the shutter at just the right mille-second. Sometimes such moments can be planned, and sometimes they cannot. Sometimes they are just there, and you have to snap it without thought for composition or lighting or any of the other elements we know are important for quality photography.
For example, you can plan for a photo full of the energy of the win when a person or a vehicle crosses the finish line. Or when you know something spectacular is about to happen, like the birth of a baby, having a camera ready for that first moment of life can result in a breathtaking picture. Such life moments can be captured if you are ready with your skill and talent and equipment. Your education, training and experience are as important as the serendipity in such instances.
Equally so, there is something to be said for the magic of the moment, captured forever on film or a CF card…. that moment when just the right elements come together for stunning composition, nothing that you could have planned or set up. Recently my husband and I escaped the heat of the desert and spent a weekend in the mountains where, one evening at dinner, we were seated on the veranda of the dining room. Just as our salads were served, the sun moved from behind clouds and the brilliant metal roofs of mountain homes were illuminated across the meadow. Bright red and green and blue and gray roof colors flooded our senses as if a bucket-full of marbles had been tossed against the green and brown mountainside. The sight was so full of energy and vitality that we could hardly speak with the vibrancy of it all.
That moment wasn’t planned. It just happened. Sometimes such experiences can be envisioned… in advance of the actual occurrence. For example, you know a harvest moon will be a spectacular sight, and you can prepare for shooting it by being in the right place at the right time. Determine ahead of time what angle you want and what location will provide the best access. The unpredictable can be made easier to manage with a little forethought. You can envision what might be, before it actually happens.
Exercising patience may open doors for a variety of unusually composed pictures, especially if you need to wait on just the right natural light, or shadow, or form or energy. Anticipating the conditions and then patiently waiting for them to occur, with your camera ready, keeps you on the cutting edge of your profession.
Saturday, February 19, 2011
Easy step by step processes for Photoshop
Want to learn how to create your own word shadowing technique? Here it is in four easy steps: 1. Open a new document. (The size I used is 500×100) Now type some text, doesn’t really matter what. (I used Arial Black 36pt) 2. Now hit CTRL + A(=select all), CTRL + C(=copy) and then CTRL + V(=paste). You have now copied the layer. Move the new layer exactly above the original text layer. Hit CTRL + T(=transform) and click the right mouse button, select “flip vertical”. Now move the layer down by dragging it or using the arrow keys. 3. Hit CTRL + T again and now select “Perspective”. Move the lower right box to the right. 4. Now simply go to the layers window and lower the opacity of the “reflection layer” to whatever you want. (I used 25%)
Want to learn how to create angled lines? Having fun with photoshop there are tons of different types of angles and grids. Pulling together resources and tutorials that are correct and easy to follow can be quite awesome looking. Check out this easy way to create angled lines over your picture: 1. Open Photoshop. Open an image to apply angled lines effect. 2. Create New file with 3 pixel width, 3 pixel height and transparent background. 3. Select some foreground color. Draw angled line using Pencil Tool. 4. Select All using CTRL + A 5. Create a pattern by Edit > Define Pattern. Name the pattern. 6. Close the Pattern file and go back to image file. Create new layer. Keep it selected. 7. Edit > Fill (Choose “Pattern” from “Use” drop down menu and again in “Custom Pattern” you will find newly created pattern) 8. Select newly created pattern and fill the layer. Change the layer mode to “Multiply”
Often websites will use effects that will make their site look really fun. There are fire blasts, smoke, lightening and other cool effects that can make your site look quite professional or fun, whatever way you chose to have it. To create a quick and easy fire blast you can use the polygon lasso tool to select a shape like an elongated triangle. Then fill with white. Then you would Apply Filter > Distort > Radial Blur Zoom 100%. Next you would want to set the eraser as above and brush lightly around the edges of the shape until you have a triangle that has some missing parts around it, you don’t want to go to heavy with this tool, just enough to take off a bit of the outer edges. Finally Apply Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur Radius 1.2. Now you have a full blown fire blast, you can really do whatever you want to your blast, make it red or yellow, but these are the initial steps to doing it.
Want to learn how to create some interfaces? Creating interfaces for your can be pretty easy. Some people like to make their sites look cool by making lcds screens and adding shading techniques. Here is a step by step process for creating a lcd screen: 1. Create a new layer and select the polygonal marquee tool. Make a shape similar to the one shown here (around 180 pixels high). Go to select > modify > smooth, enter ’25′ and press ok. 2. Set your foreground color to #D0D2C7 and fill the selection. 3. Open the layer styles dialog for your layer and go to ‘inner glow’. Use the following settings: Blend mode: normal: opacity: 22%: Size: 18px You can leave the rest of the settings as default. Go to ‘inner shadow’ and set the inner opacity to 44%, size: 7, and distance: 8. Then Click ‘ok’. 4. Create a new layer. Select the Elliptical Marquee tool and set the mode to ‘intersect’. Draw a circle over your already selected shape, so you get something similar to what is shown on the left. Fill the selection with #FFFFFF and set the blend mode to overlay and the opacity to 40%. Press ctrl+D. 5. Hold down ctrl and click the layer 1 in the layers palette (the one which includes the green shape) to select the outer perimeter. Make sure your foreground color is set to #ffffff. Create a new layer above the green shape. Go to select > modify > contract and enter a value of ’5′. Then smooth the selection with a value of ’5′. Fill the selection with #FFFFFF. Contract the selection by ’5′ again, and delete the selected area. 6. Set the layer’s blend mode to overlay and opacity to 35%. 7. Create a new layer above the background, and fill it with a gradient. 8. Select the top half of that layer, then create a new layer. Select the gradient tool and set it to “foreground to transparent”. Click and drag from the center up to create a white gradient. 9. Hold down Ctrl and click the layer in the palette, which has the green shape on it. Create a new layer under it, and expand the selection by 5. Set your foreground color to a dark grey, then make a gradient directing downwards 10. Set the foreground color to white, and make a gradient directing upwards from the bottom. Open the layer styles dialog box for layer 1, check ‘outer glow’, and use the following settings: Blend mode: normal: Opacity: 57%: size: 7 pix Leave the rest of the options as default and you’re done!
You know those images that bring some things into focus and shove others out? Well this is easily accomplished. These photo techniques can be used for anything really. Were going to start off by choosing a image. I used one of a piano. Feel free to download it and do the same as I did with it. Now press the “Quick Mask Mode” (Q) button. Double-click to choose color and opacity. Now grab the “Brush Tool” (B) and start coloring. You can either color what you want to select or what you don’t want to select. Doesn’t really matter at this stage. Go back to “Standard Mode” (Q , button left to the “Quick Mask Mode” button) and now you’ll see that either the part you left blank (and thus didn’t paint red) is selected. NOTE: If you colored the part you wanted to select you’ll see that is that part is NOT selected. You’ll have to press SHIFT CTRL i or Select > Inverse. Now go to Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur and I used a 2,5 Pixel radius. (Experiment with it!) As an extra you can press CTRL U and set the “Lightness” to -15. And now you have a shaded picture.
Want to do something cool? Turn mere chicken scratches into a commonly seen airbrushing techniques, here’s how to do it: Set a pen tool as above and scribble across the canvas until you have a similar lock to the one below. Apply the Filter > Distort > Wave effect with the standard settings. Then Edit > Fade Wave. Repeat another two times but don’t fade the wave on the last round it should look something like this. Apply the Filter > Blur > Radical Blur Zoom 50%. Click Edit > Fade Radical Blur > 75%.Set the eraser as above and brush lightly across the canvas until you have a similar look to the one below. Next Apply a Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur set the radius so you get the required detail of airbrushing Apply > edit > Transform > Distort to create the required shape.
People rarely get the opportunity to see exactly how specific images are created. I am going to give you access to a step by step way to create an awesome picture: Layer 1 Create a normal gradient fill. Layer 2 Apply Filter > Render > Clouds and set the layer to soft light, opacity 25%. Layer 2-5 Importing two different views of the model, Apply filter > Blur >gaussian blur: Radius 5. Also added some lighting to the left model. Layer 6 Using Airbrushing tutorial add “wings” of airbrushing to go behind the main render. Layer 6,7 Import the main render and duplicate the layer on the first layer apply Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur radius 10 and set to multiply to add a shadow. Layer 7-25 Using the architectural lighting tutorial add lighting to the underside and uppersides of various “blocks”. Layer 26 Duplicate the original gradient layer and place it over the top of the image, then erase the center so the sides are slightly faded as above. Layer 27-42 Importing the three views of the craft model use the architectural lighting tutorial to add engine lights of blue and red, also add airbrushing with motion blur to work as engine trails. Layer 43-46 Add small areas of red lights to the upper blocks apply gaussian blur, radius 3 and then Edit -> Fade Gaussian Blur to 50%. Layer 47 Using the architectural lighting 2 tutorial add lighting to the faces of the “blocks” and the side of the “bridge” on the left of the image. Layer 48 To add “over-clouds” Apply Filter > Render > Clouds. Then Apply Filter -> Render -> Difference clouds 5 times, and erase the bottom third of the layer. Finally set the layer to soft light 40% opacity. Layer 49 On the next layer just use Filter -> Render -> Clouds erasing most of the perimeter of the layer set to color dodge 20% opacity. Layer 50 Create a color balance layer with -44, Yellow on highlight and +5 blue on both midtones and shadows.
Want to learn how to create angled lines? Having fun with photoshop there are tons of different types of angles and grids. Pulling together resources and tutorials that are correct and easy to follow can be quite awesome looking. Check out this easy way to create angled lines over your picture: 1. Open Photoshop. Open an image to apply angled lines effect. 2. Create New file with 3 pixel width, 3 pixel height and transparent background. 3. Select some foreground color. Draw angled line using Pencil Tool. 4. Select All using CTRL + A 5. Create a pattern by Edit > Define Pattern. Name the pattern. 6. Close the Pattern file and go back to image file. Create new layer. Keep it selected. 7. Edit > Fill (Choose “Pattern” from “Use” drop down menu and again in “Custom Pattern” you will find newly created pattern) 8. Select newly created pattern and fill the layer. Change the layer mode to “Multiply”
Often websites will use effects that will make their site look really fun. There are fire blasts, smoke, lightening and other cool effects that can make your site look quite professional or fun, whatever way you chose to have it. To create a quick and easy fire blast you can use the polygon lasso tool to select a shape like an elongated triangle. Then fill with white. Then you would Apply Filter > Distort > Radial Blur Zoom 100%. Next you would want to set the eraser as above and brush lightly around the edges of the shape until you have a triangle that has some missing parts around it, you don’t want to go to heavy with this tool, just enough to take off a bit of the outer edges. Finally Apply Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur Radius 1.2. Now you have a full blown fire blast, you can really do whatever you want to your blast, make it red or yellow, but these are the initial steps to doing it.
Want to learn how to create some interfaces? Creating interfaces for your can be pretty easy. Some people like to make their sites look cool by making lcds screens and adding shading techniques. Here is a step by step process for creating a lcd screen: 1. Create a new layer and select the polygonal marquee tool. Make a shape similar to the one shown here (around 180 pixels high). Go to select > modify > smooth, enter ’25′ and press ok. 2. Set your foreground color to #D0D2C7 and fill the selection. 3. Open the layer styles dialog for your layer and go to ‘inner glow’. Use the following settings: Blend mode: normal: opacity: 22%: Size: 18px You can leave the rest of the settings as default. Go to ‘inner shadow’ and set the inner opacity to 44%, size: 7, and distance: 8. Then Click ‘ok’. 4. Create a new layer. Select the Elliptical Marquee tool and set the mode to ‘intersect’. Draw a circle over your already selected shape, so you get something similar to what is shown on the left. Fill the selection with #FFFFFF and set the blend mode to overlay and the opacity to 40%. Press ctrl+D. 5. Hold down ctrl and click the layer 1 in the layers palette (the one which includes the green shape) to select the outer perimeter. Make sure your foreground color is set to #ffffff. Create a new layer above the green shape. Go to select > modify > contract and enter a value of ’5′. Then smooth the selection with a value of ’5′. Fill the selection with #FFFFFF. Contract the selection by ’5′ again, and delete the selected area. 6. Set the layer’s blend mode to overlay and opacity to 35%. 7. Create a new layer above the background, and fill it with a gradient. 8. Select the top half of that layer, then create a new layer. Select the gradient tool and set it to “foreground to transparent”. Click and drag from the center up to create a white gradient. 9. Hold down Ctrl and click the layer in the palette, which has the green shape on it. Create a new layer under it, and expand the selection by 5. Set your foreground color to a dark grey, then make a gradient directing downwards 10. Set the foreground color to white, and make a gradient directing upwards from the bottom. Open the layer styles dialog box for layer 1, check ‘outer glow’, and use the following settings: Blend mode: normal: Opacity: 57%: size: 7 pix Leave the rest of the options as default and you’re done!
You know those images that bring some things into focus and shove others out? Well this is easily accomplished. These photo techniques can be used for anything really. Were going to start off by choosing a image. I used one of a piano. Feel free to download it and do the same as I did with it. Now press the “Quick Mask Mode” (Q) button. Double-click to choose color and opacity. Now grab the “Brush Tool” (B) and start coloring. You can either color what you want to select or what you don’t want to select. Doesn’t really matter at this stage. Go back to “Standard Mode” (Q , button left to the “Quick Mask Mode” button) and now you’ll see that either the part you left blank (and thus didn’t paint red) is selected. NOTE: If you colored the part you wanted to select you’ll see that is that part is NOT selected. You’ll have to press SHIFT CTRL i or Select > Inverse. Now go to Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur and I used a 2,5 Pixel radius. (Experiment with it!) As an extra you can press CTRL U and set the “Lightness” to -15. And now you have a shaded picture.
Want to do something cool? Turn mere chicken scratches into a commonly seen airbrushing techniques, here’s how to do it: Set a pen tool as above and scribble across the canvas until you have a similar lock to the one below. Apply the Filter > Distort > Wave effect with the standard settings. Then Edit > Fade Wave. Repeat another two times but don’t fade the wave on the last round it should look something like this. Apply the Filter > Blur > Radical Blur Zoom 50%. Click Edit > Fade Radical Blur > 75%.Set the eraser as above and brush lightly across the canvas until you have a similar look to the one below. Next Apply a Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur set the radius so you get the required detail of airbrushing Apply > edit > Transform > Distort to create the required shape.
People rarely get the opportunity to see exactly how specific images are created. I am going to give you access to a step by step way to create an awesome picture: Layer 1 Create a normal gradient fill. Layer 2 Apply Filter > Render > Clouds and set the layer to soft light, opacity 25%. Layer 2-5 Importing two different views of the model, Apply filter > Blur >gaussian blur: Radius 5. Also added some lighting to the left model. Layer 6 Using Airbrushing tutorial add “wings” of airbrushing to go behind the main render. Layer 6,7 Import the main render and duplicate the layer on the first layer apply Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur radius 10 and set to multiply to add a shadow. Layer 7-25 Using the architectural lighting tutorial add lighting to the underside and uppersides of various “blocks”. Layer 26 Duplicate the original gradient layer and place it over the top of the image, then erase the center so the sides are slightly faded as above. Layer 27-42 Importing the three views of the craft model use the architectural lighting tutorial to add engine lights of blue and red, also add airbrushing with motion blur to work as engine trails. Layer 43-46 Add small areas of red lights to the upper blocks apply gaussian blur, radius 3 and then Edit -> Fade Gaussian Blur to 50%. Layer 47 Using the architectural lighting 2 tutorial add lighting to the faces of the “blocks” and the side of the “bridge” on the left of the image. Layer 48 To add “over-clouds” Apply Filter > Render > Clouds. Then Apply Filter -> Render -> Difference clouds 5 times, and erase the bottom third of the layer. Finally set the layer to soft light 40% opacity. Layer 49 On the next layer just use Filter -> Render -> Clouds erasing most of the perimeter of the layer set to color dodge 20% opacity. Layer 50 Create a color balance layer with -44, Yellow on highlight and +5 blue on both midtones and shadows.
10 Keys To Pick A Top Photographer
Experience Level – Has this person photographed other weddings? Does he/she do this for a living or for fun? In this industry, photographers come and go daily. A brand new one may be pretty good, and everyone has to start somewhere, but do you want to trust your once in a lifetime event to a newcomer? At Babylon Productions, we have over 10 years of experience in the Toronto area doing weddings the way you like it.
Photographic Style – Are the images that you are shown, what you would like to see? Can you picture yourself photographed the same way? Is there a satisfactory mix in different styles? There are “buzz” words flying about everywhere about photojournalism, formal, classic contemporary, and so on. All colorful adjectives aside; do YOU like it? At Babylon Productions, we have a Photographic style that is exceptional in the Toronto area doing weddings the way you like it.
Truth in Advertising – Is this the photographer that will be photographing your wedding or will they send in whom ever is available. Don’t be shocked, this happens more often than you can imagine. Be certain that you know which photographer is going to be there and see HIS/HER work and meet them. At Babylon Productions, we tell you exactly what you are getting so you know that your wedding in the Toronto area is done right the first time.
Personality – Is the photographer that you meet someone that you can get along with? Is the “chemistry” there? People have walked away from hairstylists and tailors for less. This is a person that you are going to spend most of the day with; the most important day. Could you handle it? Does he or she seem service oriented? At Babylon Productions, our personal touches are important and cater to your every need in the Toronto area doing weddings the way you like it.
Appearance – Ask the photographer how he/she intends to dress. The last thing that you want is a conflict at the wedding about the photographer wearing a sweatshirt and jeans with sneakers at your favorite country club. Is this person well groomed? At Babylon Productions, we understand that appearance is important, so we try to look as professional for your wedding in Toronto.
Price Range – Although, the last thing you want to do is shop by price, is this person within your budget? If not, is he or she worth the difference? A lot of times we tend to surpass our budget constraints to get what we really want.
If you see and like it, you’ll find a way. In any case, make sure you understand what everything costs, including reorders. Delivery – How long does it take to get your proofs back, your finished album, your bridal portrait, etc.? Go ahead and ask. Some photographers take months to deliver your proofs. Be sure of how long things take to turn around. At Babylon Productions, we offer you a price within your budget; have a look at our website, we do weddings right in the Toronto area and we do weddings the way you like it.
Photographic Style – Are the images that you are shown, what you would like to see? Can you picture yourself photographed the same way? Is there a satisfactory mix in different styles? There are “buzz” words flying about everywhere about photojournalism, formal, classic contemporary, and so on. All colorful adjectives aside; do YOU like it? At Babylon Productions, we have a Photographic style that is exceptional in the Toronto area doing weddings the way you like it.
Truth in Advertising – Is this the photographer that will be photographing your wedding or will they send in whom ever is available. Don’t be shocked, this happens more often than you can imagine. Be certain that you know which photographer is going to be there and see HIS/HER work and meet them. At Babylon Productions, we tell you exactly what you are getting so you know that your wedding in the Toronto area is done right the first time.
Personality – Is the photographer that you meet someone that you can get along with? Is the “chemistry” there? People have walked away from hairstylists and tailors for less. This is a person that you are going to spend most of the day with; the most important day. Could you handle it? Does he or she seem service oriented? At Babylon Productions, our personal touches are important and cater to your every need in the Toronto area doing weddings the way you like it.
Appearance – Ask the photographer how he/she intends to dress. The last thing that you want is a conflict at the wedding about the photographer wearing a sweatshirt and jeans with sneakers at your favorite country club. Is this person well groomed? At Babylon Productions, we understand that appearance is important, so we try to look as professional for your wedding in Toronto.
Price Range – Although, the last thing you want to do is shop by price, is this person within your budget? If not, is he or she worth the difference? A lot of times we tend to surpass our budget constraints to get what we really want.
If you see and like it, you’ll find a way. In any case, make sure you understand what everything costs, including reorders. Delivery – How long does it take to get your proofs back, your finished album, your bridal portrait, etc.? Go ahead and ask. Some photographers take months to deliver your proofs. Be sure of how long things take to turn around. At Babylon Productions, we offer you a price within your budget; have a look at our website, we do weddings right in the Toronto area and we do weddings the way you like it.
Travel Photography Tips
Photography and travel photography in particular have been a passion of mine for a long time and now I would like to share some of the most important stuff I’ve learned over the years with you.
I started with a Nikon EM SLR making mostly slides and upgraded to digital in 2002. The SLR had served me very well but I realized I could cut the cost of photography to almost nothing with digital technology. Making dozens of shots of the same subject means you’re bound to have a good one eventually! Only a couple of years later I discovered the benefits of image editing software like Photoshop.
Enough history, let’s move on to my tips. In this article I assume you have some experience with (digital) photography already and I concentrate on the specifics of “shooting on the road”.
First, choose the right equipment. I like a semi-pro camera with a fixed lens and long zoom. The Panasonic Lumix series for example has exceptional value for money. Best travel photos happen fast. Most of the time you don’t have time to change lenses. Fixed lens also means you have fewer problems with dust. I always keep my camera on auto-focus and auto-exposure. Remember, best photos happen fast. You can lose the action and/or the right light in seconds. Gone forever!
Also, have a decent quality back-up. I like my second camera to be quite small. If you get invited to a party usually nobody objects to photos taken with a small innocent looking “toy-camera”. The same goes for temples, gatherings etc. However, do respect other people’s privacy and local customs.
A small light-weight tripod is useful for night/sunrise/sunset photography. Make sure it folds into your day-bag.
Secondly, learn to use your equipment at home before you travel. Know it inside out. Practice, practice, practise. When you get that once-in-a-lifetime shot you don’t want to ruin it by fiddling with your camera.
Also, read a few good books about photography in general and also on digital shooting techniques. Read them again and practise different techniques.
Ok, so now you’re on the road. You see something captivating. Start shooting! Shoot a lot, maybe 10-20 shots of the same subject. Vary angles, shoot from distance and go closer, by foot or with your zoom. Where is the light coming from? What is essential for the shot? How to compose the shot? If you have done your homework, it helps.
Photographing people: This is a sensitive issue. Basically, you should always ask
first. Even pointing at your camera and looking like a question mark is usually enough and you get a positive nod. If you are told “no”, respect it. You’ll find lots of people who actually want you to take their picture. If you talk with people, maybe show them some of your shots on your LCD they often get relaxed and trust you. Hang around later and you can shoot all you want. They might even pose for you voluntarily.
Photographing landscapes: Put your camera on aperture-priority and experiment with different apertures. Do you want a full depth of field or bring out details focusing on something interesting and using a wide aperture setting? If you shoot early in the morning or just before sunset you can get a much livelier and a more “three dimensional” photo because of the shadows. This is especially important for rural landscapes as fields of any crop look really flat without shadows.
Some maintenance tips: Remember that moisture, salt and dust are real digital camera killers! If the conditions are difficult keep your camera in its bag until the last moment. Take your shots, wipe out any visible moisture and dust (carefully!) and put your camera back in its bag. If it starts raining heavily, wrap your camera bag in a plastic bag. When you get back to your hotel, clean your camera at once. Don’t give corrosion a chance. Take out the battery, memory card and everything else that comes off. Clean everything, preferably with a camera care kit. Don’t forget to wipe the lens and filters. Fully charge your batteries and delete unwanted shots to free space on the memory cards.
You get home and download the treasure to your hard-drive. Now begins, at least for me, the most rewarding phase. But wait a second! Calibrate your monitor first. Many monitors ship with calibrating software. If yours didn’t, most image-editing software come with something similar. If everything else fails, just use your eyes! Do pictures on this or any other site look natural to you? Adjust your monitor’s brightness and contrast if necessary.
Make a hard-copy of your photos on CD/DVD and start playing with image-editing tools. Delete really bad shots. Copy the best ones to a different folder and edit them to your liking. I like to crop my photos a lot to bring out what is essential in every photo. Also adjust colours, shadows etc. Print on paper, put on your website or upload to Flickr or some other photo sharing site for everyone to enjoy and comment on.
Done! Can’t wait for the next trip… Practice more, read books, seek information over the internet, maybe join a camera club, attend photo exhibitions, even have your own? Ask at local libraries, shopping malls etc if they allow you to post your pics.
This is the equipment I use currently.
1. Primary camera: Panasonic Lumix DMZ-FZ30 , a real bargain these days
with its 12x Leica lens, 8 MB and excellent usability
2. UV filter to protect the front lens of the camera
3. Polarizing filter for shooting early in the morning and late in the evening
4. Manfrotto tripod . These are widely regarded as the best
5. Camera bag
6. Lots of 2 GB SD memory cards and spare batteries
7. Plastic bag to protect my camera when it rains
8. Camera cleaning kit
9. Backup camera: Nikon Coolpix 3200
10. Photoshop for image editing
The following are the best photography books in my opinion. I really like Lee Frost’s clear no-nonsense writing and step-by-step approach to showing you things.
Lee Frost’s Creative Photography Handbook covers photography in general from basics to advanced issues, giving you lots of sound advice on composition, using light and other essential stuff. This book is a must if you want to learn from the master.
He has several other books published as well. I particularly like The A-Z of Creative Digital Photography which is all about digital shooting techniques as well as lots of very useful Photoshop hints for polishing your photos. Some other tips show you how to make really weird, yet interesting creations using Photoshop’s filters. I’ve had many days of fun with this book!
Thank you for reading!
I started with a Nikon EM SLR making mostly slides and upgraded to digital in 2002. The SLR had served me very well but I realized I could cut the cost of photography to almost nothing with digital technology. Making dozens of shots of the same subject means you’re bound to have a good one eventually! Only a couple of years later I discovered the benefits of image editing software like Photoshop.
Enough history, let’s move on to my tips. In this article I assume you have some experience with (digital) photography already and I concentrate on the specifics of “shooting on the road”.
First, choose the right equipment. I like a semi-pro camera with a fixed lens and long zoom. The Panasonic Lumix series for example has exceptional value for money. Best travel photos happen fast. Most of the time you don’t have time to change lenses. Fixed lens also means you have fewer problems with dust. I always keep my camera on auto-focus and auto-exposure. Remember, best photos happen fast. You can lose the action and/or the right light in seconds. Gone forever!
Also, have a decent quality back-up. I like my second camera to be quite small. If you get invited to a party usually nobody objects to photos taken with a small innocent looking “toy-camera”. The same goes for temples, gatherings etc. However, do respect other people’s privacy and local customs.
A small light-weight tripod is useful for night/sunrise/sunset photography. Make sure it folds into your day-bag.
Secondly, learn to use your equipment at home before you travel. Know it inside out. Practice, practice, practise. When you get that once-in-a-lifetime shot you don’t want to ruin it by fiddling with your camera.
Also, read a few good books about photography in general and also on digital shooting techniques. Read them again and practise different techniques.
Ok, so now you’re on the road. You see something captivating. Start shooting! Shoot a lot, maybe 10-20 shots of the same subject. Vary angles, shoot from distance and go closer, by foot or with your zoom. Where is the light coming from? What is essential for the shot? How to compose the shot? If you have done your homework, it helps.
Photographing people: This is a sensitive issue. Basically, you should always ask
first. Even pointing at your camera and looking like a question mark is usually enough and you get a positive nod. If you are told “no”, respect it. You’ll find lots of people who actually want you to take their picture. If you talk with people, maybe show them some of your shots on your LCD they often get relaxed and trust you. Hang around later and you can shoot all you want. They might even pose for you voluntarily.
Photographing landscapes: Put your camera on aperture-priority and experiment with different apertures. Do you want a full depth of field or bring out details focusing on something interesting and using a wide aperture setting? If you shoot early in the morning or just before sunset you can get a much livelier and a more “three dimensional” photo because of the shadows. This is especially important for rural landscapes as fields of any crop look really flat without shadows.
Some maintenance tips: Remember that moisture, salt and dust are real digital camera killers! If the conditions are difficult keep your camera in its bag until the last moment. Take your shots, wipe out any visible moisture and dust (carefully!) and put your camera back in its bag. If it starts raining heavily, wrap your camera bag in a plastic bag. When you get back to your hotel, clean your camera at once. Don’t give corrosion a chance. Take out the battery, memory card and everything else that comes off. Clean everything, preferably with a camera care kit. Don’t forget to wipe the lens and filters. Fully charge your batteries and delete unwanted shots to free space on the memory cards.
You get home and download the treasure to your hard-drive. Now begins, at least for me, the most rewarding phase. But wait a second! Calibrate your monitor first. Many monitors ship with calibrating software. If yours didn’t, most image-editing software come with something similar. If everything else fails, just use your eyes! Do pictures on this or any other site look natural to you? Adjust your monitor’s brightness and contrast if necessary.
Make a hard-copy of your photos on CD/DVD and start playing with image-editing tools. Delete really bad shots. Copy the best ones to a different folder and edit them to your liking. I like to crop my photos a lot to bring out what is essential in every photo. Also adjust colours, shadows etc. Print on paper, put on your website or upload to Flickr or some other photo sharing site for everyone to enjoy and comment on.
Done! Can’t wait for the next trip… Practice more, read books, seek information over the internet, maybe join a camera club, attend photo exhibitions, even have your own? Ask at local libraries, shopping malls etc if they allow you to post your pics.
This is the equipment I use currently.
1. Primary camera: Panasonic Lumix DMZ-FZ30 , a real bargain these days
with its 12x Leica lens, 8 MB and excellent usability
2. UV filter to protect the front lens of the camera
3. Polarizing filter for shooting early in the morning and late in the evening
4. Manfrotto tripod . These are widely regarded as the best
5. Camera bag
6. Lots of 2 GB SD memory cards and spare batteries
7. Plastic bag to protect my camera when it rains
8. Camera cleaning kit
9. Backup camera: Nikon Coolpix 3200
10. Photoshop for image editing
The following are the best photography books in my opinion. I really like Lee Frost’s clear no-nonsense writing and step-by-step approach to showing you things.
Lee Frost’s Creative Photography Handbook covers photography in general from basics to advanced issues, giving you lots of sound advice on composition, using light and other essential stuff. This book is a must if you want to learn from the master.
He has several other books published as well. I particularly like The A-Z of Creative Digital Photography which is all about digital shooting techniques as well as lots of very useful Photoshop hints for polishing your photos. Some other tips show you how to make really weird, yet interesting creations using Photoshop’s filters. I’ve had many days of fun with this book!
Thank you for reading!
The Art of Organic Photography
Photography is a hobby for many but a passion for a few. In our day to day lives, most of us simply enjoy taking pictures, uploading them to the web, sharing them and preserving them for generations to come. Photos are our way of looking back and cherishing those special moments in our lives – those special moments captured never to return. Being successful in taking pictures and making them seem real is an art on its own – a separate art from the typical point-and-shoot snapshots – and it is only certain people who can capture the moment and make the picture speak more than a thousand words. It is not only children who like to have their photographs taken but also adults, as it gives them a chance to capture a moment and treasure it forever. Looking at soft, warm pictures, full of emotions, always melts one’s heart and it is a feeling which can forever be preserved and treasured whether offline or online in galleries such as flickr or photobucket. In and around San Francisco Bay Area, in places like Palo Alto, Berkeley and Oakland are homes to many families from very diverse ethnicities and cultures, who enjoy having their portraits taken – both adults and children alike.
Talking about renowned photographers, we must make a mention of Anat Reisman Kedem (also known as Anat Kedem), who is one such lady for whom photography is a passion and a way of life. She lives in Foster City, near San Mateo, San Carlos, Belmont and Burlingame in the San Francisco Bay Area in California, USA – and specializes in taking pictures of babies, toddlers, children (kids), pregnancy, maternity and families. She has been recognized many times for her skills – and has a track record of shooting quality pictures, unique photos in natural lighting and surroundings in places such as Menlo Park and Sunnyvale, home to Silicon Valley companies, such as Intel, Cisco, SanDisk and Adobe – as well as the Great America park and the Round Table Pizza chain of restaurants. Hillsborough, Atherton, Los Altos are beautiful small towns and home to generations of families living together. Natural settings as such can really make photos stand out – whether everyday photos or holiday season photos for Christmas, Hanukkah and other holidays where family pictures are a joy to share.
Anat Reisman Kedem summarizes it best when she says: “I believe in taking pictures in a soft, natural ambiance and lighting, creating an atmosphere which adds depth and dimension to my photos. To that end, I generally try to photograph either in the late hours of the afternoon or in the early morning hours when the sunlight romances the lens. While photographing, I will seek the alternative angle, that special look, an honest expression, or a captivating smile. Pre-orchestrated or directed poses are practically out of the question. I simply don’t believe in doing things this way.”
Located at the tip of the Bay Area is Los Gatos, which borders with San Jose, San Carlos and Santa Clara. This town has many small and large families, with a setting that serves as a real time, amazing backdrop and opportunity for taking photographs which showcase the town and its lovely residents. The suburban town of San Mateo is part of the Bay Area and has many country style houses which form the perfect setting for that cozy photograph. Known for the Coyote Point Park, its golf courses and beach – as well as its proximity to the San Francisco Airport (SFO), the ideal Mediterranean climate here paves the way for a calm and comfortable life. Sausalito and Tiburon in Marin Country, as well as Redwood Shores, Foster City, Alameda and Santa Cruz also provide waterfront scenic backdrops like nowhere else – a perfect setting for perfect photos.
A person can not only enjoy the visuals but also learn more about a person through photographs. And in this way Anat has gone to prove that it is not necessary to have studio lighting, layers of makeup, or a designer dress for a person to look great and resonate warmth – be yourself and let your personality and natural aura shine through the photos, taken in a natural setting with no “artificial preservatives” of any kind. In a sense, it’s organic photography. And it’s a talent only a few photographers possess.
Talking about renowned photographers, we must make a mention of Anat Reisman Kedem (also known as Anat Kedem), who is one such lady for whom photography is a passion and a way of life. She lives in Foster City, near San Mateo, San Carlos, Belmont and Burlingame in the San Francisco Bay Area in California, USA – and specializes in taking pictures of babies, toddlers, children (kids), pregnancy, maternity and families. She has been recognized many times for her skills – and has a track record of shooting quality pictures, unique photos in natural lighting and surroundings in places such as Menlo Park and Sunnyvale, home to Silicon Valley companies, such as Intel, Cisco, SanDisk and Adobe – as well as the Great America park and the Round Table Pizza chain of restaurants. Hillsborough, Atherton, Los Altos are beautiful small towns and home to generations of families living together. Natural settings as such can really make photos stand out – whether everyday photos or holiday season photos for Christmas, Hanukkah and other holidays where family pictures are a joy to share.
Anat Reisman Kedem summarizes it best when she says: “I believe in taking pictures in a soft, natural ambiance and lighting, creating an atmosphere which adds depth and dimension to my photos. To that end, I generally try to photograph either in the late hours of the afternoon or in the early morning hours when the sunlight romances the lens. While photographing, I will seek the alternative angle, that special look, an honest expression, or a captivating smile. Pre-orchestrated or directed poses are practically out of the question. I simply don’t believe in doing things this way.”
Located at the tip of the Bay Area is Los Gatos, which borders with San Jose, San Carlos and Santa Clara. This town has many small and large families, with a setting that serves as a real time, amazing backdrop and opportunity for taking photographs which showcase the town and its lovely residents. The suburban town of San Mateo is part of the Bay Area and has many country style houses which form the perfect setting for that cozy photograph. Known for the Coyote Point Park, its golf courses and beach – as well as its proximity to the San Francisco Airport (SFO), the ideal Mediterranean climate here paves the way for a calm and comfortable life. Sausalito and Tiburon in Marin Country, as well as Redwood Shores, Foster City, Alameda and Santa Cruz also provide waterfront scenic backdrops like nowhere else – a perfect setting for perfect photos.
A person can not only enjoy the visuals but also learn more about a person through photographs. And in this way Anat has gone to prove that it is not necessary to have studio lighting, layers of makeup, or a designer dress for a person to look great and resonate warmth – be yourself and let your personality and natural aura shine through the photos, taken in a natural setting with no “artificial preservatives” of any kind. In a sense, it’s organic photography. And it’s a talent only a few photographers possess.
Friday, February 18, 2011
How to Create an Awesome Model Portfolio
Creating a model portfolio is a process
Ok, you're ready to create your portfolio. All you have to do is contact your local photographer, set up a photo session, have prints made and put them in a book, right? WRONG!!!
You want your model portfolio to be professional, complete, and impressive when you show it. This is one of the single most important steps you'll take other than promotion so get it right!
What is a model portfolio?
Your model portfolio book will be made up of a book with anywhere between 10 and 25 photos normally consisting of 9x12 prints.
You will want a good selection of different types of "looks" in your portfolio. For example; have some photos created indoors in a home setting, some in the studio, some outdoors in different locations.
Also include shots which may be considered commercial, fashion, casual, and editorial content. Ask the photographer to help you with choosing looks that best fit your personality and the type modeling you wish to pursue.
You'll also want to include a good headshot (without makeup) and a good body shot (swimwear or tight-fitting clothing) especially if you plan to apply to the larger model markets. These larger markets such as the top NY agencies like to see exactly what they are getting when they view your photos. They don't want to see fancy posing or clutter, just you so keep this in mind when creating model photos for them to view.
Do not think that "more is better". It's much more effective to have 8 absolutely beautiful, perfectly shot photos in your portfolio than 100 mediocre ones.
Please keep this in mind when putting your portfolio together because it's very important! If you have to really pine over whether or not an image makes the grade for quality or belongs in your model book, it most likely doesn't.
A professional photographer or agent can help you decide when it comes to quality of photos so ask for advice if you're not sure. Also, you can view model images on agency websites or on my on site at http://www.bobpardue.com/model/photo-gallery to see if the quality of your image is up to standard.
Let's get started
Now, let's get started in developing your model portfolio. A really good, complete model portfolio is not created overnight. You will develop it as you develop your talent by working with different photographers.
Different photographers? Won't this cost a fortune?
A terrific model portfolio won't cost you a fortune if you follow the simple steps below. Your model portfolio will not be free, mind you, but way less expensive than paying several different photographers to shoot each section.
Step One - Paid Photo Session
If you are working on a tight budget, this may be a little painful to you but worth it if you are trying to build a killer portfolio.
Finding a photographer for your first model session
Although your local portrait photographer may be teriffic in doing family portraits or weddings, he/she may not know all the ins and outs of creating a model portfolio. You may want to check to see if they offer this service but I would check places like One Model Place or Model Mayhem for photographers who are well experienced in portfolio work.
You should be able to hire a really good photographer for anywhere between $300. to $1,000. with the latter being the extreme in a high-end market area. I would think the average would be around $600.
When choosing your photographer, don't just base your decision on price. If the photographer can't produce those perfect images for your portfolio, it doesn't matter what it costs!
What you should ask the photographer
Below are some questions to ask your photographer before agreeing to hire him/her for the job of creating your model portfolio.
Ask if he is experienced in model portfolio development - Be sure to choose a photographer who is used to creating model portfolios so that there is less chance of confusion about what you need and desire in your portfolio
Ask where the photographer is located (This really seems silly but I have received hundreds of contacts from across the US just because models brought up my website when they did a search on photographers in their areas)
Ask for references of recent model shoots (contact at least two models)
Ask for the price range for portfolio packages, how many photos, etc.
Tell the photographer the type 0f model images you need and ask if she has the ability to create them
Ask who will provide the hair and makeup artist(s), you or the photographer. This varies greatly and I would suggest having these services no matter who provides them
Ask if he provides retouching or airbrushing services and whether this is included in the original fee given
Ask how the photos are delivered - This also depends on the photographer's way of doing business so is very important. For instance, we deliver all our images on cd but in printable and web formats so that the model can have copies made whenever she needs them. Also, this means she does not have to print every photo to get what she needs.
Ask about usage rights - This question relates to the previous one. It's very important that you receive usage and reprint rights for your promotions. If the photographer does not offer reprint rights, ask about usage of the prints. You may be able to work something out with him
Ask how long it takes to receive your images after the shoot. You don't want to wait for an eternity or until you are six months older before receiving your portfolio photos.
Ask about clothing and props - What should you furnish and does the photographer have any props and/or outfits on hand
Ask if she will assist you in your posing - Tell her that you are new and ask for posing suggestions
Ask if you can bring a friend or parent (If the photographer refuses this request, I would suggest looking for a different photographer)
Ask if the photographer will help in your promotion - Not the usual job of the photographer but some will. We offer an online comp card album online for six months with each model portfolio session.
Ask the photographer if she offers a guarantee. You should be well satisfied with your photos. After all, it's your model portfolio you will be showing to the world so you'll want it done right!
Whew!!! You may say, "That's a fountain of questions!! A geyser!!" but all these questions are essential to choosing your photographer wisely and will help you to have a better chance of working with someone you can trust to create your all-important model portfolio.
I hope that this report has been helpful to you and I hope you lots of success in your modeling career!
Bob Pardue is a professional model photographer located in the Southeastern US. His work has been published worldwide. Bob Pardue Photography
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bob_Pardue
Ok, you're ready to create your portfolio. All you have to do is contact your local photographer, set up a photo session, have prints made and put them in a book, right? WRONG!!!
You want your model portfolio to be professional, complete, and impressive when you show it. This is one of the single most important steps you'll take other than promotion so get it right!
What is a model portfolio?
Your model portfolio book will be made up of a book with anywhere between 10 and 25 photos normally consisting of 9x12 prints.
You will want a good selection of different types of "looks" in your portfolio. For example; have some photos created indoors in a home setting, some in the studio, some outdoors in different locations.
Also include shots which may be considered commercial, fashion, casual, and editorial content. Ask the photographer to help you with choosing looks that best fit your personality and the type modeling you wish to pursue.
You'll also want to include a good headshot (without makeup) and a good body shot (swimwear or tight-fitting clothing) especially if you plan to apply to the larger model markets. These larger markets such as the top NY agencies like to see exactly what they are getting when they view your photos. They don't want to see fancy posing or clutter, just you so keep this in mind when creating model photos for them to view.
Do not think that "more is better". It's much more effective to have 8 absolutely beautiful, perfectly shot photos in your portfolio than 100 mediocre ones.
Please keep this in mind when putting your portfolio together because it's very important! If you have to really pine over whether or not an image makes the grade for quality or belongs in your model book, it most likely doesn't.
A professional photographer or agent can help you decide when it comes to quality of photos so ask for advice if you're not sure. Also, you can view model images on agency websites or on my on site at http://www.bobpardue.com/model/photo-gallery to see if the quality of your image is up to standard.
Let's get started
Now, let's get started in developing your model portfolio. A really good, complete model portfolio is not created overnight. You will develop it as you develop your talent by working with different photographers.
Different photographers? Won't this cost a fortune?
A terrific model portfolio won't cost you a fortune if you follow the simple steps below. Your model portfolio will not be free, mind you, but way less expensive than paying several different photographers to shoot each section.
Step One - Paid Photo Session
If you are working on a tight budget, this may be a little painful to you but worth it if you are trying to build a killer portfolio.
Finding a photographer for your first model session
Although your local portrait photographer may be teriffic in doing family portraits or weddings, he/she may not know all the ins and outs of creating a model portfolio. You may want to check to see if they offer this service but I would check places like One Model Place or Model Mayhem for photographers who are well experienced in portfolio work.
You should be able to hire a really good photographer for anywhere between $300. to $1,000. with the latter being the extreme in a high-end market area. I would think the average would be around $600.
When choosing your photographer, don't just base your decision on price. If the photographer can't produce those perfect images for your portfolio, it doesn't matter what it costs!
What you should ask the photographer
Below are some questions to ask your photographer before agreeing to hire him/her for the job of creating your model portfolio.
Ask if he is experienced in model portfolio development - Be sure to choose a photographer who is used to creating model portfolios so that there is less chance of confusion about what you need and desire in your portfolio
Ask where the photographer is located (This really seems silly but I have received hundreds of contacts from across the US just because models brought up my website when they did a search on photographers in their areas)
Ask for references of recent model shoots (contact at least two models)
Ask for the price range for portfolio packages, how many photos, etc.
Tell the photographer the type 0f model images you need and ask if she has the ability to create them
Ask who will provide the hair and makeup artist(s), you or the photographer. This varies greatly and I would suggest having these services no matter who provides them
Ask if he provides retouching or airbrushing services and whether this is included in the original fee given
Ask how the photos are delivered - This also depends on the photographer's way of doing business so is very important. For instance, we deliver all our images on cd but in printable and web formats so that the model can have copies made whenever she needs them. Also, this means she does not have to print every photo to get what she needs.
Ask about usage rights - This question relates to the previous one. It's very important that you receive usage and reprint rights for your promotions. If the photographer does not offer reprint rights, ask about usage of the prints. You may be able to work something out with him
Ask how long it takes to receive your images after the shoot. You don't want to wait for an eternity or until you are six months older before receiving your portfolio photos.
Ask about clothing and props - What should you furnish and does the photographer have any props and/or outfits on hand
Ask if she will assist you in your posing - Tell her that you are new and ask for posing suggestions
Ask if you can bring a friend or parent (If the photographer refuses this request, I would suggest looking for a different photographer)
Ask if the photographer will help in your promotion - Not the usual job of the photographer but some will. We offer an online comp card album online for six months with each model portfolio session.
Ask the photographer if she offers a guarantee. You should be well satisfied with your photos. After all, it's your model portfolio you will be showing to the world so you'll want it done right!
Whew!!! You may say, "That's a fountain of questions!! A geyser!!" but all these questions are essential to choosing your photographer wisely and will help you to have a better chance of working with someone you can trust to create your all-important model portfolio.
I hope that this report has been helpful to you and I hope you lots of success in your modeling career!
Bob Pardue is a professional model photographer located in the Southeastern US. His work has been published worldwide. Bob Pardue Photography
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bob_Pardue
Setting Up Your Online Portfolio
I've been asked a lot recently how someone would go about creating their online portfolio, and whether a photographer, model or artist, you need this to really do something with your talents. Big thanks to Marc Scheff for this tutorial!
If you need a website, you can have it fast with thousands of good looking templates to choose from. Here I will walk you through the basic setup. It’s so easy I didn’t even include screenshots.
Many artists are interested in having their portfolio online, but it’s too hard to manage. In the second part of this page, I tell you how to get your portfolio up there quickly, easily, and with an incredible tool that lets you manage your images.
CREATING YOUR SITE
Get the site up
Option 1 (a little $$ and more control)
1. Go here: http://www.dreamhost.com/r.cgi?78115, and sign up for the basic plan (note: sign up for a year and get a big discount)
2. When you’re done, you’ll get an email linking you to your admin panel, go there now (http://panel.dreamhost.com)
3. In the admin screen and click on Goodies -> One Click installs
4. Select WordPress, and Install it on your url
5. You’ll get an email with a link to your new WordPress site, follow the instructions and you will land in your WordPress admin screen (the url will be http://www.YOURURLHERE.com/wp-admin)
Option 2 (free, less control)
1. Go to www.wordpress.com, get an account
Pick a look
1. In your WordPress panel, click “Presentation, and select a template. Click on “view site” to see the new look!
Make pages/posts
1. CREATE new pages and posts by clicking “Write” and then “post” or “page”
2. EDIT pages and posts by clicking “Manage” and then select “Edit” next to the post or page you wish to edit
3. SETUP your options by clicking “Options.” Change the name of your blog as well as lots of little details you might not have thought of (in Options->General, you can set your homepage to be the blog (i.e. a page that shows all of the posts you’ve written) or a specific page (e.g. if you made a page called “home” you can set this as the homepage)
CREATING YOUR PORTFOLIO
Now you will put all your images in a Flickr account, and link to them from your site. This is smart because now you don’t host your images, and also people search flickr like nuts, so it’s good exposure.
Flickr
1. Go to Flickr.com
2. Sign up for a pro account (worth the $25)
3. Upload all your images
* Use the upload interface to upload a few images: http://www.flickr.com/photos/upload/
* Use the bulk uploader if you have lots of images (this is my personal preference, it’s drag and drop easy): Download the Flickr Uploader here
4. Click on the Organize button on the main flickr page, then drag/drop your photos into sets (e.g. portraits, landscapes, whatever)
Now you’re going to create a page in WordPress for each of the sets you made in flickr, see Pictobrowser’s site for an example of the interface. You will copy the code from my page into your page.
Placing your Portfolio on your site
Option 1 (if you have your own url, not on wordpress.com)
1. Go to Pictobrowser’s site, and click the “info” link on the bottom of the flash movie
2. A form will replace the gallery, enter your flickr username and then copy the code it spits out
3. Go to your wordpress admin screen (likely: www.yoururl.com/wp-admin) and click Write -> Page
4. If you see two tabs labelled “Visual” and “Code” at the top of the text area for the page, click on “Code” before pasting
5. Paste the code into the page
6. Hit save
Option 2 (for people with free accounts on wordpress.com)
1. Make a slideshow here, and paste it in: http://www.slide.com/arrange?cy=wp
Portfolio complete.
If you need a website, you can have it fast with thousands of good looking templates to choose from. Here I will walk you through the basic setup. It’s so easy I didn’t even include screenshots.
Many artists are interested in having their portfolio online, but it’s too hard to manage. In the second part of this page, I tell you how to get your portfolio up there quickly, easily, and with an incredible tool that lets you manage your images.
CREATING YOUR SITE
Get the site up
Option 1 (a little $$ and more control)
1. Go here: http://www.dreamhost.com/r.cgi?78115, and sign up for the basic plan (note: sign up for a year and get a big discount)
2. When you’re done, you’ll get an email linking you to your admin panel, go there now (http://panel.dreamhost.com)
3. In the admin screen and click on Goodies -> One Click installs
4. Select WordPress, and Install it on your url
5. You’ll get an email with a link to your new WordPress site, follow the instructions and you will land in your WordPress admin screen (the url will be http://www.YOURURLHERE.com/wp-admin)
Option 2 (free, less control)
1. Go to www.wordpress.com, get an account
Pick a look
1. In your WordPress panel, click “Presentation, and select a template. Click on “view site” to see the new look!
Make pages/posts
1. CREATE new pages and posts by clicking “Write” and then “post” or “page”
2. EDIT pages and posts by clicking “Manage” and then select “Edit” next to the post or page you wish to edit
3. SETUP your options by clicking “Options.” Change the name of your blog as well as lots of little details you might not have thought of (in Options->General, you can set your homepage to be the blog (i.e. a page that shows all of the posts you’ve written) or a specific page (e.g. if you made a page called “home” you can set this as the homepage)
CREATING YOUR PORTFOLIO
Now you will put all your images in a Flickr account, and link to them from your site. This is smart because now you don’t host your images, and also people search flickr like nuts, so it’s good exposure.
Flickr
1. Go to Flickr.com
2. Sign up for a pro account (worth the $25)
3. Upload all your images
* Use the upload interface to upload a few images: http://www.flickr.com/photos/upload/
* Use the bulk uploader if you have lots of images (this is my personal preference, it’s drag and drop easy): Download the Flickr Uploader here
4. Click on the Organize button on the main flickr page, then drag/drop your photos into sets (e.g. portraits, landscapes, whatever)
Now you’re going to create a page in WordPress for each of the sets you made in flickr, see Pictobrowser’s site for an example of the interface. You will copy the code from my page into your page.
Placing your Portfolio on your site
Option 1 (if you have your own url, not on wordpress.com)
1. Go to Pictobrowser’s site, and click the “info” link on the bottom of the flash movie
2. A form will replace the gallery, enter your flickr username and then copy the code it spits out
3. Go to your wordpress admin screen (likely: www.yoururl.com/wp-admin) and click Write -> Page
4. If you see two tabs labelled “Visual” and “Code” at the top of the text area for the page, click on “Code” before pasting
5. Paste the code into the page
6. Hit save
Option 2 (for people with free accounts on wordpress.com)
1. Make a slideshow here, and paste it in: http://www.slide.com/arrange?cy=wp
Portfolio complete.
Cold Weather Photography
Cold weather isn't just uncomfortable, it's also hard on your health and that of your equipment. These next two paragraphs deal with protecting yourself and your equipment.
Protecting the photographer
* Dress in layers from head to toe -- wearing layers of warm clothing all over your body will help you stay warmer and give you greater flexibility to deal with changing weather conditions. Synthetics such as polypropylene ("polypro") and pile can keep you warm even when wet; combined with a Gore-Tex or weatherproof shell garment, such clothing can keep you comfortable.
* Protect your hands -- frostbite's no fun (trust me). For extreme cold weather plan on a set of polypro glove liners, followed by a heavier outer glove or mitten. Even better is a combo glove popular with hunters. These feature an inner set of fingerless gloves with a mitten flap that offers extra warmth, but can be flipped over when greater dexterity. The best of these also offer a pouch for a chemical heat pack to help keep your fingers even warmer. With practice, you can operate your camera while exposing only one polypro clad finger to the cold.
* Eat for the cold -- your body burns more calories working in the cold than it does in warm weather. Not only is it important to take in enough calories to get through a cold weather outdoor shoot, but the type of calories are also important. One gram of carbohydrate or protein contains about 4 calories of energy, while one gram of fat provides 9 calories of energy. Eating meals high in fat before a cold weather shoot can help you stay warmer as your body works harder to metabolize the fat. Carrying some high fat snacks for nibbling on in the cold is also a good idea.
* Manage your body temperature -- be careful to avoid working up a sweat, particularly if you're wearing old fashioned thermal underwear (which is made of cotton and loses its effectiveness when it gets wet). Under extremely cold conditions, your sweat can freeze quickly, requiring more body heat to melt that ice later when you've cooled down.
Protecting your gear
Now that you've taken care of yourself, it's time to plan on keeping your equipment operational. While most gear is up to the occasional cold day, operating under extreme cold or sustained cold conditions places a real strain on modern digital cameras whether they be DSLRs or point-and-shoot cameras.
* Get your camera a CLA -- if you need reliable performance from your camera, consider sending it off to the manufacturer for a CLA (clean, lube and adjustment) to make sure it's working at its best.
* Buy more batteries -- a new set of batteries or two gives you insurance against the likelihood of faster battery drain in the cold plus the newer ones will provide optimal performance.
* Keep your batteries warm -- keep every battery you're not using in a shirt or trouser pocket where your outer clothing can protect them and your body heat can keep them warm.
* Keep your batteries warm (pt 2) -- sometimes conditions are so bad you have to tape chemical warming packets to the outside of your camera to keep the battery compartment warm enough for the batteries to keep functioning. This is one reason why photographers often carry gaffer's tape or duct tape in their camera bags.
While shooting in the cold isn't often fun, a prepared photographer can function very effectively when the thermometer drops.
Protecting the photographer
* Dress in layers from head to toe -- wearing layers of warm clothing all over your body will help you stay warmer and give you greater flexibility to deal with changing weather conditions. Synthetics such as polypropylene ("polypro") and pile can keep you warm even when wet; combined with a Gore-Tex or weatherproof shell garment, such clothing can keep you comfortable.
* Protect your hands -- frostbite's no fun (trust me). For extreme cold weather plan on a set of polypro glove liners, followed by a heavier outer glove or mitten. Even better is a combo glove popular with hunters. These feature an inner set of fingerless gloves with a mitten flap that offers extra warmth, but can be flipped over when greater dexterity. The best of these also offer a pouch for a chemical heat pack to help keep your fingers even warmer. With practice, you can operate your camera while exposing only one polypro clad finger to the cold.
* Eat for the cold -- your body burns more calories working in the cold than it does in warm weather. Not only is it important to take in enough calories to get through a cold weather outdoor shoot, but the type of calories are also important. One gram of carbohydrate or protein contains about 4 calories of energy, while one gram of fat provides 9 calories of energy. Eating meals high in fat before a cold weather shoot can help you stay warmer as your body works harder to metabolize the fat. Carrying some high fat snacks for nibbling on in the cold is also a good idea.
* Manage your body temperature -- be careful to avoid working up a sweat, particularly if you're wearing old fashioned thermal underwear (which is made of cotton and loses its effectiveness when it gets wet). Under extremely cold conditions, your sweat can freeze quickly, requiring more body heat to melt that ice later when you've cooled down.
Protecting your gear
Now that you've taken care of yourself, it's time to plan on keeping your equipment operational. While most gear is up to the occasional cold day, operating under extreme cold or sustained cold conditions places a real strain on modern digital cameras whether they be DSLRs or point-and-shoot cameras.
* Get your camera a CLA -- if you need reliable performance from your camera, consider sending it off to the manufacturer for a CLA (clean, lube and adjustment) to make sure it's working at its best.
* Buy more batteries -- a new set of batteries or two gives you insurance against the likelihood of faster battery drain in the cold plus the newer ones will provide optimal performance.
* Keep your batteries warm -- keep every battery you're not using in a shirt or trouser pocket where your outer clothing can protect them and your body heat can keep them warm.
* Keep your batteries warm (pt 2) -- sometimes conditions are so bad you have to tape chemical warming packets to the outside of your camera to keep the battery compartment warm enough for the batteries to keep functioning. This is one reason why photographers often carry gaffer's tape or duct tape in their camera bags.
While shooting in the cold isn't often fun, a prepared photographer can function very effectively when the thermometer drops.
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
Surreal Photography
Surrealism in photography was one of the major revolutionary changes in the evolution of photography. Rather than art, photography was reviewed as a copying effort. But, in fact surrealism was a break through in photography, which motivated the photographers for more experiments.
Surrealism was a movement in the art and intellectual activities, emerged after World War I. Andre Breton, was the founder of the surrealistic concepts and he has gathered the influence from the Dande movement. Surrealism is actually the real expression of mental emotions, without any polishing. Andre Breton describes surrealism in Surrealist Manifesto, as the pure psychic automatism expressed in the real functionality of a person. Surrealistic art forms characteristically differ from the conventional forms in not having specific shape or idea. It can be the expression of basic human instinct and imaginative faculties of the unconscious mind. But, when surrealism comes to photography, the critics did not even imagine such a possibility. However, “Marquise Casati” by Man Ray, made a change to the belief, as it featured multiple eyes for the photograph. Even though, it was an accidental blurring, it proved the chances for the feasibility of surrealistic works.
Man Ray and Lee Miller are considered as legends in surrealistic photography as they were very successful to overcome the limitations of photography to create surrealistic images. Maurice Tabard is another famous surrealist, who had his own technique for surrealistic imaging. Hans Bellmer creatively used mechanical dolls to symbolize sexualized images, where as for Rene Magritte camera was the tool to make photographic equivalents of his paintings.
Surrealist photographs are described as the images, which symbolically represent dreams, night mares, intoxication, sexual ecstasy, hallucination and madness. The difficulty with photography medium is that it imbibes the reality, and often the real images cannot be sufficient to express such unconventional patterns. But, the famous surrealist photographers are able to fulfill the task since they can use the photographic techniques effectively. The ordinary snapshots, body photographs, anthropological photographs, medical photographs, movie stills, and even police photographs are manipulated to create the impression of surrealist images in the photographs.
Surrealism in photography is mainly performed using the different techniques. The differential techniques of light and lenses can itself be the primary technique for surrealism. Photomontage is one of the popular processing techniques, in which the several images are coupled together. In photogram, a photographic paper can be used instead of camera to imprint the image. The images produced by the flush of light can create amazing images that has a surrealistic look.
Multiple exposure is another technique for surrealism, in which the camera is clicked twice or more, without rolling the negative. The second image will be superimposed on the first image and the final product will be an undefined mixture of both. Cliche verre or glass negative is the surrealistic technique that uses negative coated from glass plate. Anyhow, solarization or Sabattier effect seems to be the most remarkable technique for surrealism. It produces dramatic effect of patterns through the flushing of the light on the photograph, while developing in the darkroom. It was discovered by Lee Miller, which have selective reversal of highlights and shadows. The light and dark areas with the distinct line of reversal make it most appropriate for surrealism.
Surrealism in photography has progressed much from its primitive stages. The new technology and lenses offer immense opportunity to the new generation photographers to portray their mental emotions in the frame of cameras.
Surrealism was a movement in the art and intellectual activities, emerged after World War I. Andre Breton, was the founder of the surrealistic concepts and he has gathered the influence from the Dande movement. Surrealism is actually the real expression of mental emotions, without any polishing. Andre Breton describes surrealism in Surrealist Manifesto, as the pure psychic automatism expressed in the real functionality of a person. Surrealistic art forms characteristically differ from the conventional forms in not having specific shape or idea. It can be the expression of basic human instinct and imaginative faculties of the unconscious mind. But, when surrealism comes to photography, the critics did not even imagine such a possibility. However, “Marquise Casati” by Man Ray, made a change to the belief, as it featured multiple eyes for the photograph. Even though, it was an accidental blurring, it proved the chances for the feasibility of surrealistic works.
Man Ray and Lee Miller are considered as legends in surrealistic photography as they were very successful to overcome the limitations of photography to create surrealistic images. Maurice Tabard is another famous surrealist, who had his own technique for surrealistic imaging. Hans Bellmer creatively used mechanical dolls to symbolize sexualized images, where as for Rene Magritte camera was the tool to make photographic equivalents of his paintings.
Surrealist photographs are described as the images, which symbolically represent dreams, night mares, intoxication, sexual ecstasy, hallucination and madness. The difficulty with photography medium is that it imbibes the reality, and often the real images cannot be sufficient to express such unconventional patterns. But, the famous surrealist photographers are able to fulfill the task since they can use the photographic techniques effectively. The ordinary snapshots, body photographs, anthropological photographs, medical photographs, movie stills, and even police photographs are manipulated to create the impression of surrealist images in the photographs.
Surrealism in photography is mainly performed using the different techniques. The differential techniques of light and lenses can itself be the primary technique for surrealism. Photomontage is one of the popular processing techniques, in which the several images are coupled together. In photogram, a photographic paper can be used instead of camera to imprint the image. The images produced by the flush of light can create amazing images that has a surrealistic look.
Multiple exposure is another technique for surrealism, in which the camera is clicked twice or more, without rolling the negative. The second image will be superimposed on the first image and the final product will be an undefined mixture of both. Cliche verre or glass negative is the surrealistic technique that uses negative coated from glass plate. Anyhow, solarization or Sabattier effect seems to be the most remarkable technique for surrealism. It produces dramatic effect of patterns through the flushing of the light on the photograph, while developing in the darkroom. It was discovered by Lee Miller, which have selective reversal of highlights and shadows. The light and dark areas with the distinct line of reversal make it most appropriate for surrealism.
Surrealism in photography has progressed much from its primitive stages. The new technology and lenses offer immense opportunity to the new generation photographers to portray their mental emotions in the frame of cameras.
Creating Mood With Color in Your Photographs
Just as music builds mood, colors can also help create mood. A lot has been written on what each color denotes, what emotions it evokes. Colors also have an impact on one’s health. Did you ever think that the colors in a photograph can actually make someone look at it over and over again or probably turn-off the viewer.
Lets understand the essence of a photograph or a painting for that matter. Human subconsciousness readily sees things in symmetry. Therefore, a symmetrical figurine or view would register faster. Asymmetrical view (in this case a photograph) would also catch attention but with some portions drawing more attention than others.
Next comes the color and texture. Colors in your photograph can have an impact in two ways. One, through the contrast created by using colors of ‘cooler hues’ along with colors of ‘warmer hues’. Second, through the use of a color-type in dominance you could create vibrance, tranquility or royal elegance. Red, Orange and Yellow of the spectrum are warm colors. Blue, Purple and Green on the other hand are cool colors
If a photograph is created with a contrast, the warmer tones need to be occupying less space as these colors draw away attention. They have an effect of warmth & excitement, which when used in excess can also be agitating.
Red is the best choice for creating warmth & passion in your photo. Why on earth did you think that Valentine’s Day is all about red flowers, red balloons and a long flowing red dress? Red with a background in white adds drastic contrast but has an element of grace to it.
Orange gets created by mixing yellow and red. It therefore, brings in enthusiasm and warmth. Nature’s best hues are when the sun goes down and colors the sky in a confused array of pink, orange and yellow.
Yellow reflects most of the light and thus draws lots of attention; too bright a shade will leave you irritated. Prolonged exposure can also have a tiring effect. It is best used in down-tones; as background for white articles/figures.
Green is the color of tranquility and vibrance. It’s nature’s color and often gets used in pro photography for food advertising. It seems perfect when paired up with yellow. They have opposite impacts on your mood. Though it may sound like a garish combination, when used in equal proportions it has lasting impact on your photographs.
Blue produces a sense of calmness, which edges more towards sadness. Someone once said-‘I am felling blue’. Blue is also a very responsible color, very corporate and powerful, when paired with black.
Black has varied meanings in different cultures across the globe. Universally, it’s the color of choice for most formal occasions equally for men and women. It magically makes your outline look much slimmer. It absorbs all color and is to be sparingly used in photographs. Most welcome to be used with warm colors or when the sentiment is serious..
Use white and pink to create a softer look. White creates a sense of space and is ideal to give a deeper look to your photograph. And if you got a flared pink dress, just sit on the green rug across a white background to get clicked….you will love that photograph on your wall for years to come.
Now that you are aware of what colors can do to the photographs! Now go enliven yourself with those snazzy snaps in the living room or retire in that lounge area with cool blues. Ah! and not to forget the right kind of shades too.
Lets understand the essence of a photograph or a painting for that matter. Human subconsciousness readily sees things in symmetry. Therefore, a symmetrical figurine or view would register faster. Asymmetrical view (in this case a photograph) would also catch attention but with some portions drawing more attention than others.
Next comes the color and texture. Colors in your photograph can have an impact in two ways. One, through the contrast created by using colors of ‘cooler hues’ along with colors of ‘warmer hues’. Second, through the use of a color-type in dominance you could create vibrance, tranquility or royal elegance. Red, Orange and Yellow of the spectrum are warm colors. Blue, Purple and Green on the other hand are cool colors
If a photograph is created with a contrast, the warmer tones need to be occupying less space as these colors draw away attention. They have an effect of warmth & excitement, which when used in excess can also be agitating.
Red is the best choice for creating warmth & passion in your photo. Why on earth did you think that Valentine’s Day is all about red flowers, red balloons and a long flowing red dress? Red with a background in white adds drastic contrast but has an element of grace to it.
Orange gets created by mixing yellow and red. It therefore, brings in enthusiasm and warmth. Nature’s best hues are when the sun goes down and colors the sky in a confused array of pink, orange and yellow.
Yellow reflects most of the light and thus draws lots of attention; too bright a shade will leave you irritated. Prolonged exposure can also have a tiring effect. It is best used in down-tones; as background for white articles/figures.
Green is the color of tranquility and vibrance. It’s nature’s color and often gets used in pro photography for food advertising. It seems perfect when paired up with yellow. They have opposite impacts on your mood. Though it may sound like a garish combination, when used in equal proportions it has lasting impact on your photographs.
Blue produces a sense of calmness, which edges more towards sadness. Someone once said-‘I am felling blue’. Blue is also a very responsible color, very corporate and powerful, when paired with black.
Black has varied meanings in different cultures across the globe. Universally, it’s the color of choice for most formal occasions equally for men and women. It magically makes your outline look much slimmer. It absorbs all color and is to be sparingly used in photographs. Most welcome to be used with warm colors or when the sentiment is serious..
Use white and pink to create a softer look. White creates a sense of space and is ideal to give a deeper look to your photograph. And if you got a flared pink dress, just sit on the green rug across a white background to get clicked….you will love that photograph on your wall for years to come.
Now that you are aware of what colors can do to the photographs! Now go enliven yourself with those snazzy snaps in the living room or retire in that lounge area with cool blues. Ah! and not to forget the right kind of shades too.
Sunday, February 13, 2011
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